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By Way of Korea

South Korea   |   New York

A Korean food blog and travelogue inspired by

an epicurious New Yorker's journey around South Korea

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Tosokchon Samgyetang: Ginseng Chicken Soup for Your S(e)oul (Jongno District)


Even on the dog days of summer, natives and tourists alike stand in a line that wraps around the corner of Tosokchon Samgyetang, enduring the blistering sun and stifling humidity, waiting to be seated for a hot bowl of its namesake dish.


Chobok, which was observed just over a week ago, marked the first of three days on the lunar calendar (collectively referred to as Sambok) that Koreans deemed the hottest days of the year. The other two days are joongbok (tomorrow!) and malbok, which falls on August 11th this year. The farmers observed Sambok by consuming samgyetang, or other boyangsik ("health foods"), to nourish themselves and bolster their stamina during the growing season. This custom still prevails today, as demonstrated by the long lines outside samgyetang restaurants on these particular days.


Tosokchon Samgyetang serves a whole, young chicken gorged with sweet rice, jujubes, and ginseng simmered in a pot with their signature mix of nuts and seeds, which includes pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, black sesame seeds, job's tears, walnuts, pine nuts, and gingko nuts, and chestnuts. The resulting elixir invigorates your wilting core, fortifying you against the wearying influence of the summer heat from the inside out.


Tosokchon Samgyetang

Address: 5, Jahamun-ro 5-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul

Hours: 10:00 AM~10:00 PM daily (매일 10:00~22:00)


토속촌 삼계탕

주소: 서울 종로구 자하문로5길 5

영업시간: 매일 10:00~22:00

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"If you’re twenty-two, physically fit, hungry to learn and be better, I urge you to travel - as far and as widely as possible. Sleep on floors if you have to. Find out how other people live and eat and cook. Learn from them - wherever you go."

Anthony Bourdain's unmatched relish for adventure and humble approach to food, cultures, and humanity left an indelible impression on my younger self. Imparting on me the courage to veer into the unknown, he inspired me to embrace my vulnerabilities and seek adventures and growth beyond the comforts of home.

 

In July of 2017, I boarded a one-way flight to Seoul, South Korea. Within the first week of arrival, I signed a lease for an apartment and by the end of August, I had accepted a job offer that relocated me to Pyeongchang and Gangneung, where the Winter Olympics were soon to be held. From there, I had the rare opportunity to explore much of the greater Gangwon Province's beautiful mountainous and coastal regions and their distinctive foods. Once or twice a month, I'd return to Seoul or travel to an unfamiliar region to poke around alleyways, markets, and mountains in search of more good eats and adventures.

 

By Way of Korea is a storytelling project inspired by the food, places, and faces I encountered throughout Korea. By sharing my fondest memories, notes, and images of Korea, I simply hope to play a small part in piquing greater curiosity about Korean food and culture in my readers.  My content will heavily spotlight, but not be limited to Korean food and culture. 

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