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By Way of Korea

South Korea   |   New York

A Korean food blog and travelogue inspired by

an epicurious New Yorker's journey around South Korea

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Eun-Galchi Jorim | Braised Silver Cutlassfish aka Hairtail (Seogwipo, Jeju Island)

Updated: Jun 12, 2019


According to the UN Food and Agriculture Organization, South Korea ranks as one of the top consumers of seafood in the world. The diversity of seafood and its accessibility to the common people gave rise to a wealth of dishes and culinary traditions that make up a significant part of Korean cuisine.

Each distinctive coastal region is recognized for its unique sea products; Jeju Island, famous for its abalone, also produces one of the most beloved regional foods – eun-galchi (silver cutlassfish). Because of its long and narrow body and lustrous sheen, the silver cutlassfish (as suggested by its name) resembles a shining sword. In contrast to muk-galchi, which are caught in bulk and lose their shine in friction with each other, eun-galchi are caught individually by line fishing, which allows the fish to retain their steely coats.


A culinary trip around Jeju Island would not have been complete without a meal consisting of this fish, so we decided to have some braised cutlassfish (or hairtail as it's also commonly called). Our tong-galchi-jorim – whole cutlassfish braised in a spicy sauce with white radish – arrived in a long, black trough to be set on two burners placed side by side at the edge of our table. Once the hellish red contents reached an angry boil, we were each served a piece of the almost meter-long fish. Separating the white meat from the fine bones took a bit of effort, but it was tender and otherwise pleasantly palatable. The sauce itself qualified this galchi dish as what Koreans refer to as bap-dodook (#밥도둑), or “rice thief” – a tasty food that compels you to eat a lot more rice than usual.

Galchi jorim (spicy braised silver cutlassfish or hairtail), a popular dish of Jeju Island, South Korea

Even after the picking the fish clean, we continued to enjoy our rice with the leftover sauce. The sea urchin bibimbap that we had ambitiously ordered in addition to our main entree offered a bowl of rich sea flavor complemented by earthy sesame oil.


The bloody mess of a table we left behind ㅡ empty bowls and plates splashed with red sauce and crumpled napkins stained orange ㅡ surely attested to a meal properly enjoyed.


Daegijeong Address: 41 Ieodo-ro Seogwipo-si Jeju-do Hours: 10:30AM~9:00PM

대기정 주소: 제주도 서귀포시 이어도로 41 영업시간: 10:30~21:00

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"If you’re twenty-two, physically fit, hungry to learn and be better, I urge you to travel - as far and as widely as possible. Sleep on floors if you have to. Find out how other people live and eat and cook. Learn from them - wherever you go."

Anthony Bourdain's unmatched relish for adventure and humble approach to food, cultures, and humanity left an indelible impression on my younger self. Imparting on me the courage to veer into the unknown, he inspired me to embrace my vulnerabilities and seek adventures and growth beyond the comforts of home.

 

In July of 2017, I boarded a one-way flight to Seoul, South Korea. Within the first week of arrival, I signed a lease for an apartment and by the end of August, I had accepted a job offer that relocated me to Pyeongchang and Gangneung, where the Winter Olympics were soon to be held. From there, I had the rare opportunity to explore much of the greater Gangwon Province's beautiful mountainous and coastal regions and their distinctive foods. Once or twice a month, I'd return to Seoul or travel to an unfamiliar region to poke around alleyways, markets, and mountains in search of more good eats and adventures.

 

By Way of Korea is a storytelling project inspired by the food, places, and faces I encountered throughout Korea. By sharing my fondest memories, notes, and images of Korea, I simply hope to play a small part in piquing greater curiosity about Korean food and culture in my readers.  My content will heavily spotlight, but not be limited to Korean food and culture. 

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